New York, New York - so good they visited it twice!

So finally I have finished the blog posts from our latest foray to the Big Apple (and slightly beyond!), where the divas descended, dazzled and devoured. DD and I added some new restaurants to our recommendation list (Café Gray, Sarabeth’s and Florent), revisited a fabulous old friend (Union Square Café) and in the “low cost, high value” dining experience department got to eat a Mesquite grilled steak and another steak but with a Mexican makeover. And when we weren't eating, we were snacking so especially for DD a bagel and a melting moment - what could that flash of Tiffany be?

Sorry about the tardiness again, I successfully went from chronic jet-lag to being rather sick. The sort of sickness that meant all your brain-power was dedicated to breathing and swallowing (both rather vital I think you'd agree) and there was really nothing left over for composing coherent prose. Despite the malaise I also enjoyed some stunning meals over the last few weeks so I still have to write up Petrus, Browns, The Glasshouse, Restaurant 22 and a rather poor effort at Gaucho’s. I’ve also been hanging out at a TV studio currently filming a new cookery show, tasting some deliciously wicked new chocolates at Hotel Chocolat, poring over and cooking from many new and old cookery books, facilitating D join the 'excessive yet glamorous crockery club' and pondering the possibilities for future festive fare. So another blogging mountain to conquer, I guess the only answer is to stop eating for a while! Hmmmm, I'd rather not!

Oh, I almost forgot not only did we get to enjoy some fine eating in the Big Apple I picked up some little diva -esque sparkly trinkets as well! Well they are being so incredibly kind with the $ vs. £ rate at the moment, we are most grateful!

Another bite of the Big Apple for the divas

I’ve just returned from a trip to the good old U S of A, mainly New York to be exact. There was much good eating, a little not so good, an extravagance of fine shopping, some bowling and lots of jetlag. It seems I am extremely good at jetlag!
I have plenty to blog about to catch myself up again once I’ve slept... some sleep would be good now!

A re-union at USC

There’s something very cosy about Union Square Café, it’s like a big warm hug of a restaurant. DD and I have declared it to be ‘our’ restaurant and no visit to New York would really be complete without a visit. I guess we set a precedence last year by lingering over a long and late, luscious lunch on my birthday and then hanging around the bar even longer to toast KK’s birth with gorgeous pink cocktails (me initiating DD to the delights of the Chambord orb!), wait long enough for the famed bar nuts to materialise and put off the inevitable, unenviable task of departing from Manhattan to spend the rest of the week in the culinary dearth of deepest New Jersey. This time we were determined yet again that our final hours in the big apple would be at USC’s pleasure and we’d also introduce another J to our fave NY hangout. It’s clear that plenty agree with us. One of the fabulous quirks of the menu is that there are daily specials based on the finest ingredients they’ve picked up at the green market in Union Square and weekly specials that are well known and locals will revisit on the say Monday for the special ‘USC’s Lobster “Shepherd’s Pie” – with Mushrooms, Mashed Potatoes, Spinach, Carrots and Lobster Sauce’ night and just have that before heading home or out. We met one of these locals who regularly popped in for a spot of sustenance and sat at the bar whilst his favourite dish was delivered to him. And I am sure I would be a very regular diner if I lived just a little closer!

We were sat at one of the linen clad tables by the door as we hadn’t booked and could experience the full cheesiness of the ‘meeter and greeter’ who had just that specific tone of indifferent and insincere feelings that I expected ‘and you’ll find your exits, here, here and two over the wing…’ to waft over to us any minute. But we couldn’t be distracted by her false smiles for long as the very serious business of the menu being examined at length bought a hush to our table. We decided that we’d start our meal with a Kir Imperial and then share a plate of Seared Foie Gras with Toasted Cornbread, Roasted Mission Figs and Grape Relish before DD tucked in to the Herb-Roasted Amish Chicken with White Wine Jus, Sautéed Wild Mushrooms, Greenmarket Arugula and Parmigiano Bread Pudding, another J selected the Pan-Seared Sea Scallops with Balsamic Butter, Roasted Autumn Vegetables, Guanciale, Currants and Pine Nuts.

I just had so many to choose from prevaricated over the infamous Lobster Shepherd’s Pie or the Crispy Lemon-Pepper Duck or the Grilled Lamb Chops Scotta Dita with Potato-Gruyère Gratin but eventually plumped for the special of the day the Bacon Wrapped Monkfish with Porcini Risotto and Sautéed Escarole. It was imperative that I ordered Union Square Cafe’s Mashed Potatoes with Frizzled Leeks and Sautéed Broccoli Rabe “Mama Romamo style” for us all to share.

The seared foie gras was stunning and delicious and once polished off we turned our attention to pondering extensively about the Amish chicken. I am not terribly familiar with Amish lore but felt that a chicken probably wouldn’t really miss buttons, cars, electricity or even insurance as really they just want to scratch, perch and have the odd dust bath. If the Amish order that bred these very fine chicken was only permitted to use horse and buggy I could imagine that getting the plump chickens to market might be a challenge but perhaps exceptions are made. They were certainly very fine chickens, juicy and oh so flavoursome however deprived of electricity they were. DD’s Parmigiano bread pudding was soft and tasty also.

Another J relished her scallops and even let us appreciate their sweet plumpness for ourselves.

My monkfish was a deliciously undemanding and comforting dish to eat; with unctuous risotto (not quite as stunning at that one at Café Gray but gorgeous all the same) and of course there was some sublime mash to enjoy alongside the verdant broccoli.

We were going to seriously struggle to tear ourselves away from such magnificence. And we turned out to be so stuffed that we couldn’t even face a dessert with three spoons. It was with great regret that we stopped pondering our nicely rounded tummies, settled the bill and ventured into the cold again in search of our luggage and a long train journey.

I can promise the justifiably three-forked USC that we will be back as soon as we can. Please have our usual table waiting adorned with fresh Kir Imperials and herbed, spicy nuts to share. Hmmm, mmmm, mmmm. What shall we say DD, table for 7 o’clock?

A couple of New York melts

We’ve got a day in the biting New York cold (so desperately different from Sydney and even London when I left it) I am finally planning some shopping as everyone else seems positively dripping with carrier bags and I feel deprived. But before that we need fortification as so off to our local deli for a couple of New York melts and a chance for DD to ensure his Tiffany ring gets another airing on the World Wide Web. They certainly gave us a little central heating so now we can venture forth to Saks 5^th Avenue where I have plans of a sparkly nature!

Packing in some meat in the Meat Packing district

Another J has also jetted in today to join the party and after a spot of shopping (well it seems almost rude not to) she is meeting DD and I in the Hudson bar for a pre-show cocktail before leaping into a yellow cab and heading for the meat packing district.

The Hudson is certainly a happening place (though DD will vouch that it stays happening and banging way later than a jetlagged person should have to endure!) and we enjoy a cocktail under the “toddlers let loose with a box of wax crayons and a gallon of Sunny Delight” ceiling.

Our trusty concierge has suggested Florent for us tonight; I mentioned something about the meat packing district and something authentic and a 24 hour French roadside caff often hailed as a New York institution is recommended. And he is so right, it’s just what we needed, some uncomplicated yet hearty French bistro food in a real, totally unpretentious New York establishment.

The signs are made out of those white letters you might have seen on a board outside the local Odeon proclaiming the latest Hollywood blockbuster and the tables are Formica. One wall is draped incongruously in silver foil strands possibly left over from a party or just to hide the less than perfect walls, and the lights are dim enough (hence the alarming 70's style sepia photos) not to alarm a wee small hours of the morning reveller who has stopped by for a restorative tureen of onion soup crowned with a Gruyère topped crouton.

I start with a little pork liver pâté with green peppercorns, I had hoped for the duck mousse pâté but they’d run out. I normally like my pâté less coarse and more of a parfait but the pork liver pâté had a feisty taste.

Then we all realised that being in the meat packing district we really should have steak frites – a grilled New York sirloin with all the trimmings even though the mac & cheese, chicken and salmon looked pretty good also.

And for a dessert a few spoons of a mousse au chocolat to complete our fine French bistro fare, we could be in a little starkly light and plastic flower adorned café that litter the French countryside but no we’re in New York. A meat-packing fork for Florent, I feel they may feel it would be deemed pompous to have any more.

Obviously a world away from Café Gray last night but that’s what I like about dining out in New York, the multitude of choices and one can't always fine dine - well not always!

Hard Rock Fork

H had agreed that after DD and I have enjoyed a brief spot of shopping (I was feeling deprived) we'd join them, H's sister and friend just flown in from Dublin at the Hard Rock Café in Time's Square. Not that any of us were hungry after our Sarabeth's brunch, it just seemed a suitable central meeting place.
The plan was swiftly changed when they realised it wasn't the most ideal place for KK and they went off in search of something a tad less 'rocking' but I did have to grab a picture of what would happen if my blog joined the dark side.
I guess this could be my antithesis of the diamond fork - the devil fork!

Superb brunch at Sarabeth's

Our trusty Hudson concierge recommended Sarabeth’s as a perfect late brunch place that was fun, family friendly and located close to Central Park. We were meeting H, R and KK who having rented an apartment just off Time’s Square had actually moved to Manhattan (albeit temporarily) and were exploring the delights of Central Park on this ever so crisp Sunday morning. Actually it was unbelievably chilly but coming from London this wasn’t as huge shock whereas DD, being more accustomed to a Sydney temperature, had a huge culture shock. How lucky he’d picked up a little Armani (did I get that right, DD?) cashmere scarf yesterday whilst on his major shopping excursions yesterday before I’d landed. As we crossed endless streets on our way to Central Park we pondered what delights we’d like for our brunch and I express a particular desire for that stalwart of brunch menus – eggs Benedict, possibly with the more traditional ham or as I’d missed the salmon in my bagel this morning, maybe with smoked salmon.

When we arrived at Sarabeth’s we could see that it was enormously popular, apparently when H and R had passed by earlier with KK in her pushchair there were queues around the block. By the time everyone arrived the queues had fortunately abated and all seven of us were led to the back room to a big round table. KK was tucked up underneath a cream cashmere canopy with no evidence of her presence except a highly desirable cute pink pair of Converse All Stars (I think they’re called Chucks!) poking out the bottom. She slept on whilst the grownups perused the menu.

And it is, as expected, the perfect brunch menu. Under the heading of ‘extraordinary eggs and omelettes’ there is the Smoked Salmon Eggs Benedict I’ve been hankering after but there are plenty of other options I would have been happy with. What about Goldie Lox – scrambled eggs with smoked salmon and cream cheese or the extremely tasty sounding Farmer's Omelette - leeks, ham and chunks of potato with Gruyere or Green and White which is scrambled eggs with scallions and cream cheese? There’s also fat waffles and the intriguingly names Baby Bear, Mama Bear, Dada Bear and Big Bad Wolf porridge. I may not be a fan of porridge but I do like the names!

My eggs Benedict dish with Irish smoked salmon is exactly what I was craving and hit the spot perfectly. I don’t think I’ll ever tire of a well-made classic Hollandaise sauce or a perfectly poached egg.

And because we felt it had to be tried H and I shared the Individual apple Crumb Pie with the caramel ice cream, and rather good it was indeed. As KK had just woken up I thought she may want to join the girls in a not so girly dessert of sweet crunchiness, soft apple and gorgeous ice cream but she was really only interested in collecting all the spoons, she seems to like spoons! I was a very tasty dessert and crowned a perfect New York brunch, two forks for the two-named Sarabeth.

A very bright New York bagel

DD being two days ahead of me in Manhattan is not only two days ahead of me in terms of shopping (I intend to redress that today) but has cased the joint with regards to local eating establishments. He has recommended a local café for a bagel and promises me one of a more normal size not like the loaf I was offered last year. I had intended having it toasted (I know, many think this is just wrong) with chived cream cheese and salmon but in my confusion/jetlagged state I am distracted by the crucial inclusion of chives and miss the exclusion of the salmon. Never mind, it is indeed a fine bagel, top recommendation DD. We’re back!

Anatomy of Gray's

Start spreading the news… there’s a diva in town. Well actually two!

Plan A after disembarking at JFK was to hot foot in into Manhattan, check into the Hudson and then cross the road to the Time Warner Centre (probably spelt center, but that distresses me) and finally head for a highly covetable table at Per Se. DD and I were on the waiting list for a table at 9pm, I landed at 7pm and therefore had plenty of time! I hadn’t actually mentioned the possible table at the fabulous Per Se to DD; I just thought it would be a lovely surprise when we arrived! But I hadn’t heard from the restaurant before the flight so I hadn’t changed in the toilet before we landed and it turned out to be fortuitous. For some inexplicable reason the journey through immigration was unusually torturous and I would never have made a 9pm table reservation anyway. On arrival at the Hudson, possibly the darkest hotel in the world, I threw myself on the mercy of the concierge for a rapid replacement reservation. I suggested maybe Italian and definitely not too far from the hotel. I mentioned that I had been waiting to hear from Per Se and he suggested an interesting idea, Café Gray at the Time Warner Center. (I figured if I have to write Gray, then I can get over center!) It met my criteria for a very short walk and though not Italian seemed the prefect spot to grab something not too heavy but elegant all the same, so a table was booked for 10.30 pm. After a quick spruce up we headed over to see what Gray’s would have to offer.

We would shown to the bar and took in our surroundings – clean lines, bright (yeah!) enticing aromas wafting around us and a despite the fact that I should have tucked up in bed (London time) ages ago, I was rather peckish. In fact the jet lag/hunger combination did cause me to have a bit of a diva moment when I saw the little banquette I had my eye on being snapped up by another couple who arrived after us. But they swiftly appeased me and led us instead to a little linen-clad table in the main part of the restaurant where we could spy on the chefs’ ministrations in the open-plan kitchen, a much better table!

We were delivered a gorgeous amuse bouche of spoon of ginger and spaghetti of some vegetable possibly squash that I cannot recall for sure but I have asked the restaurant if they could remind me.

But I have no problem recalling the starter. DD and I opted to split the RISOTTO mushroom fricassée between us. And it was seriously gorgeous. The risotto came served in a little silver pan topped with an unidentified top-hatted gentleman. And it was an unctuous very tasty starter. We were given a pan each but only half filled, I am guessing the full portion would have the pan brimful but we both agreed that actually it was the perfect size and a very memorable risotto.

I went for an unusual choice for me and that was SKATE SCHNITZEL – butternut squash, red wine apples and caper brown butter. There was a good choice of amongst others roasted veal, cheeks and sweetbreads, braised short rib of beef and grilled organic poussin but the skate intrigued me. And it was a wise choice; it was light, a crispy coating and tasty autumnal vegetables and a vibrant and verdant herby sauce.

We weren’t sure if we could squeeze in a dessert but felt we could just manage to share a chocolate soufflé. Unfortunately the last had just been sold so we swapped our plans swiftly to CHOCOLATE CRÈME BRÛLÉE with apricot compote instead. And it was the perfect way for two divas to finish our first meal together on our second bite of the Big Apple. It was the crunchy chocolate brûlée topping, the rich, creamy interior contrasting with the tangy, juicy apricots.

I was initially disappointed that my cunning plan had been thwarted by Per Se but was delighted to discover Café Gray and frankly I was in no state to do a full Per Se tasting menu justice. I was disoriented as my crown-less watch needs a special magnet to change its time which inconveniently I have left at home. This means that I can’t really adopt New York time as on every occasion I catch site of it I am transported back to what time my body thinks it should be, never mind maybe I can track down a Rado stockist tomorrow and adopt a New York state of mind. What a fabulous excuse to go shopping!

That mushroom risotto was sublime, the skate a wonderful and unusual change and the chocolate hit as a finale, very fine indeed! Gray Kunz is definitely a chef to be reckoned with and personally if I were asked to compare Masa with Café Gray (both inhabitants in the high faluting food court come shopping mall aka the Time Warner Center) I would choose Café Gray any day over the shabby service and frankly shabbier food of Masa - a place that will always remain a mystery to me.

Three well deserved shiny grey forks for the accomplished cooking of Café Gray and they made a weary diva feel very welcome.

Two London's in one day

Today I jetted off from London to enjoy a fabulous meal in London. That is I flew from London Heathrow to New York JFK and went straight to Gordon Ramsay at the London, and despite the somewhat diva-ish some say crazy prospect of flying all the way to New York for one night for a meal, the resultant jet lag was worth it.

I arrived before A, N and bump – well they had a more troublesome journey from New Jersey than I had! I furnished myself with their finest Kir Imperial and made myself comfortable in the bar. On arrival, the receptionist kindly informed them that J was “waiting and sparkling in the bar” – as every diva should!

Here are some pictures of how fabulous the food would have looked if I'd been able to photograph my dishes with any light at all. You can see the elegantly ridged fine bone china, the design of which Gordon collaborated with Royal Doulton on. I think you MIGHT spot the difference between these and my own humble photographs!

After a brief aperitif we were escorted to the hallowed inner sanctum of the fine dining room to commence our much anticipated feast. Our maitre d’ was the lovely Jean-Baptiste Requien that we all recognised from Hell’s Kitchen and the F word. We had already decided that barring any bump-intolerant food we’d all have the menu prestige and so began our epic epicurean journey.

The restaurant is not extravagantly decorated but understated and ever so sophisticated, the metallic wall panels shimmer in an art deco way but the style is very now and much to my chagrin the lights are very dim – just fatal for food photography! The most vibrant part of the scheme were the obligatory red neon fire exit signs which were reflected the dining room. It did give it an interesting red accent which can be seen in the photo of the glass plate of bonbons. It did make me wonder if that’s why the lights were so ‘atmospheric’, would more dramatic lighting have bounced all over the room reflected in the panels and given the impression you were eating in a très chic fairground hall of mirrors. My London hairdresser assures me that this was all designed by a friend of a friend who also designed Madonna’s “crib”! The elegant dining room serves 15 covers so is pleasingly intimate without feeling at all crowded. We were most intrigued by the chairs, your standard elegant upholstered chair with the hidden surprise being that they could swivel in any direction affording a fine view of our refined surroundings. N was terribly impressed with hers and would have happily requested a doggy bag for it.

My usual anti-tomato stance was duly noted so after our first silken chicken foie gras and toast and tasty miniature onion and bacon tart we were given a blt and a beetroot crisp “sandwich” for the tomato hater. The blt was the star, a bacon and onion cream, chilled lettuce velouté, tomato gelée which I am assured was just the essence of a blt and the sensation of eating a bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich which actually consuming one.

I had the less dramatic but very lovely marinated beetroot, ricotta, pine nut and Cabernet Sauvignon dressing which had the thinnest of beetroot crisps that shattered pleasingly when forked and then deliciously mingled with the ricotta and dressing.

The excessive anticipation had not been to no avail and despite the poorly lit photos; you can see we feasted on course after course of perfection. And that’s what Gordon excels in, beautifully presented, perfectly executed, and magnificently tasting sublime food - just heaven!

Next we tucked into a pressed foie gras and game with port sauce and pickled mushrooms. It is such a shame that the fabulous jewel like qualities of the little vegetable and purée accompaniments have been lost in translation. But they tasted wonderful and we had great fun identifying each one, a point to a jet-lagged J for picking out the little tiny dollops of puréed cauliflower. Just delicious!

Next we had one of Gordon’s signature dishes lobster ravioli with fennel cream and shellfish vinaigrette, though I’m fairly sure our menu actually said lobster tortellini. Whichever it is we enjoy a fat and silky soft pasta filled with succulent lobster with a very tasty sauce.

Here my menu goes even more wayward; I asked our waitress if we could have a menu to take away as it saves a lot of furious scribbling of courses. I was duly supplied with a folder of press-pack information on the opening and all the menus but ever so curiously not the actual menu we had. Almost but not quite!

Because we definitely had fish – possible cod sat astride some sort of Basque pepper mixture but the menu refers to striped bass with pak choi and caviar velouté but I know there was pepper. And the reason I’m sure about this is pepper is not an ingredient I am partial to as I always think they’re going to be squeaky, slimy and pervade my whole meal. And they invariably do- until now! Maybe I’ve hit the nail on the head. Years ago when I first read Jeffrey Steingarten’s “The Man who Ate Everything” I was impressed to read that his first task in 1989 on being appointed as food critic to American Vogue was to make his own black list of food phobia and develop a six-step program to eliminate them one-by-one. His technique for this was to find the most exemplary example of each “bête noir” and with continued exposure and each of the food stuffs being consumed in the best possible light he would finally find the good in each. And sure enough after six months of tracking down the finest exponent of each despised substance he was able to declare himself the perfect omnivore. Obviously when I first read this it gave me considerable food for thought, would I be able to take on such a gigantean task? My list is rather extensive, (see right) and I’ve spent many years studiously avoiding them. Could I ever learn to love a tomato? Maybe the answer is to get Gordon to cast his Michelin starred wand over each evil food and maybe, just maybe I could join the tomato adoring, goat cheese enjoying, curry worshipping masses – hmmm, I rather shudder at the thought! Maybe one day… but I’m not sure I have room in my life for such substances. But at least for tonight I enjoyed some peppers.

After that diatribe there’s little doubt which I plumped for our of a choice of mains of roast cannon of lamb with candied onions, confit tomatoes and marjoram jus or loin of venison with beetroot fondant, parsnip purée, creamed ceps and bitter chocolate sauce. Yes you’re right, I tucked into a stunning juicy venison loin with an accompanying little silver sauce spoon so I could savour every last drop of the delicious chocolate sauce.

It’s rare that I eschew cheese in a tasting menu but time and jet lag weren’t really on my side but the alternative – the palate cleansing roasted pineapple with crystallized cilantro (ugh, coriander in disguise) was actually zingy, refreshing and just perfect after the meat.

And then we had a soufflé – an apricot soufflé with Amaretto ice cream. What surprised us was it was quite an impressive size for a tasting menu – and just so light, cloud-like and melt in the mouth and was very good indeed.

And now there was nothing left to have some coffee, tea and to avail ourselves of the extraordinarily imposing and captivating bonbon trolley. This was a multilayered trolley stacked high with every gorgeous sweetmeat you can think of. There was dark chocolate with mouth-watering liquid mint centres, crunchy golden honeycomb, airy macaroons of every flavour and hue, a curious stained glass raspberry confection called a confoundment (possibly not called that actually!), intriguing Clanger shaped chocolate cones, boiled sweets, little crystallised ginger titbits… and so many, many more. We were the last in the restaurant so we thought we should select a few of the most delectable and then take up their ever so kind offer of a tour of the kitchens. I think we were possible the only to have this honour and enjoyed seeing the gleaming metal surfaces the night staff buzzing around (either setting up the mis en place for tomorrow’s service or preparing room service for the London hotel) There’s also a prestigious eight seat chef’s table to enjoy the culinary masterpieces in the heart of the kitchen.

I was trying to find an "if only..." to ensure my review didn't turn into gush-fest but other than personally craving more light so the photographs may have lived up to the food I can't find anything amiss. All the staff were so lovely, they made no attempt to chivvy us along though as we finally stood up from our table to explore the kitchen after every other diner had left we were informed that British diners took longer to eat than their American counterparts. They are extremely knowledgeable and can answer any queries about ingredients, provenance etcetera. As well as being extraordinarily well fed you feel cosseted nay thoroughly spoilt throughout the entire evening and don't really want to go back into the real world again.

I’m not sure that there are enough superlatives for Gordon Ramsay’s New York venture, I hope Michelin do the right thing by them later this year. I will be watching you Michelin!
I am awarding three utterly sublime forks with the addition of removing the esteemed and highly coveted diamond encrusted fork from Tom Aiken and awarding it instead to much worthier Gordon Ramsay at the London, it truly deserves to be my most supreme restaurant experience. Get a reservation if you can and go to London! You won't regret it I can assure you.

Gordon, we're coming!

In March I happen to be ‘forced’ to spend an evening in New York so to soften the blow I’m off to Gordon Ramsay’s new Manhattan restaurant – London and I’m seriously excited! When I say ‘forced’, I think self imposed layover so I can experience the culinary genius that is Gordon would be more appropriate. Because of flight schedules, I alight from my transatlantic flight in Newark airport, sprucing up and changing into the suitable Michelin establishment attire in the tiny toilet beforehand and then have to hot-foot it straight to the restaurant in deepest Manhattan.
But it’s a very small sacrifice for such gastronomic nirvana! I also just heard that one of my epicurean cohorts for this adventure is ‘with bump’, yes another one!
So let’s hope Gordon’s New York crew cater as fabulously for N and bump as Petrus did for H and bump.

Just check out the menu prestige.
Mmmm, I can smell lobster ravioli already!

The final bite of the Big Apple

It’s still pouring with rain and all possible thoughts of a last minute Manhattan shopping expedition have gone out of the window as I hadn’t accessorised this outfit with an umbrella. K had organised an afternoon tea with another lovely client but after eating my body weight in lobster, I was seriously balking at the thought of the tiniest part of a crust less cucumber sandwich. Fortunately we couldn’t seem to find anywhere to partake of a jam scone and ended up in the bar “District” in the Muse Hotel where we didn’t need to consume anything more demanding that a nice glass of wine. Though S and I did manage a few mouthfuls of a shared Oreo cookie and mint ice cream refreshing dessert. This was a great idea because as much as I loved the lobster, I fancied something a little palate cleansing before I hit the roads for the airport.

Our client, B had bought along some really impressive photographs of a recent luxury Alaskan Cruise holiday, which has given me serious food for thought for a future trip, myself. They’d enjoyed helicopter rides, bear watching expeditions, a dog sled ride and even the opportunity to meet the husky puppies. They’d also, very importantly had some amazing food. I’d also coincidentally seen a travelogue in my hotel a few nights earlier on the very same holiday and had particularly enjoyed seeing behind the scenes operations involved in servicing such a cruise ship. I’d never considered before what would happen to all the rubbish and food waste created on board.

I thought this was my final bite of the Big Apple but I think New York got the last bite. A tiny sabre-toothed something took quite a few little bites out of my arm; I wonder if whatever it was will be reviewing their meal and how many forks will it give me? I’ll be keeping an eye out for “have fangs will travel”!

Bye bye Big Apple.

Totally lobstered!

On a very rainy day in Manhattan we had decided to take a lovely client out to lunch at City Lobster. We could see some of the lunch menu moving languidly around their large tank as we took to our table. The décor not surprisingly is American diner meets New England seafood shack which plenty of ‘Pinchy’ (note Simpson’s reference here!) memorabilia emblazoned on the wall. On consulting the menu I felt it would be rude not to order the ubiquitous lobster so plumped for one of the day’s specials - Seafood Bisque with Lobster, Scallops and Crab. I enjoyed it but found it was rather a large portion and was worried that I might struggle with my main. I also had a taste of K’s Warm Blue Crab, Artichoke and Spinach Gratin, which I thought was seriously good, and wish that I’d selected it.

We were convinced we’d end up covered in pieces of lobster during out ministrations so we draped ourselves in napkins and lobster bibs and armed with claw crackers and lobster forks for wheedling out those juicy bits and awaited our main. I’d ordered a New England Lobster Bake with Littleneck Clams, Mussels, Summer Sweet Corn and New Potatoes for main, thinking that it would be a another kind of gratin dish but it was just an enormous plate of whole lobster, whole corn cob, a pile of mussels, another of clams and potatoes filling the remaining space (though there actually wasn’t any). The plate was piled so high it was difficult to know where to start, there seemed to be no flat surface to start making inroads.

S had just gone for a lobster, a large one, a monster lobster, one that perhaps had been crossed with a whale! Not realising how totally enormous my main dish would be I’d also ordered Lobster Mash Potatoes – well it would have been rude not to, and a small vat of this turned up also.

My lobster was really good, the lobster mash was utterly fabulous and if I’d been honest, I could have had just this. In fact this has to be one of my ultimate comfort foods, good mash with really tasty lobster – what more could one want? The clams and mussels weren’t at their best unfortunately, both a little dry but there was just so much other much tastier stuff that I really didn’t care. The new potatoes were beautifully sautéed and with a touch of rosemary – very good indeed! I certainly wasn’t able to eat all of it and none of us could remotely face a dessert. After lobster served three ways I had to admit that I was utterly, totally lobstered. City Lobster deserves two lobster forks – especially for that awesome mash! Okay. it's not as sublime as Gary's may be, but it's seriously comforting!

The duck hat-trick (or the Masa mystery)

After a very fond farewell with DD, French S and R - K, N, S and myself set off back to the bright lights of Manhattan. New York fashion week meant that the hotels were all full to the rafters so we were split between three different hotels. S was staying at the trendiest – The Hudson so it seemed wise to start at the bar there. And my what a funky bar! The floor is glass and lit from beneath, I kept hoping that as I stepped from square to square they would change colour or flash or something – but it didn’t happen! The ceiling has a huge painting that actually looks like a herd of children have been let loose with giant crayons – and I may speculate the children were boys, as there seems to be lots of bullets incorporated into the design. Is that sexist? Maybe, but all the little boys I used to know would draw bomber planes, fires, monsters and dinosaurs when let loose with a box of crayons. And the girls would draw cats and houses, flowers and fairies – me included, apparently I had a predilection for pink flowers! But back to the Hudson, for those “Sex in the City” fans I would say that there were a few ‘modelisers’ artfully sprawled in the clear chairs – remember what I said about New York fashion week? I think there were quite a few hopeful men hanging around!

We were trying to decide on a restaurant but all the places I mentioned seemed too far. I had a craving for a nice little Italian; I was hankering for some freshly made ravioli with a light creamy sauce and probably with a little pesto. K suggested we strolled over to the Time Warner Centre as it’s across the road and there are a few restaurants there. We ascended the escalators and admired the sculptures made from Illy coffee cups and the first place we spot is Per Se. Well this is indeed a surprise! I have been dying to go there but had been unable to get a reservation. It just seemed wrong to turn up at 10 pm and see if they could accommodate us; I had been planning enjoying their fabulous tasting menu and if they did allow us to order this we’d probably still be eating at 2 in the morning. It was impossible to tell if there was room for us as the big blue door remained firmly closed.

Next door to Per Se was Masa, and even though I wouldn’t generally opt for Japanese, we were all hungry. My taste buds have certainly been globetrotting on this trip – why not add Japanese to the list.

The décor was quite curious, stark and industrial with what looked like bullet holes in the concrete walls with what seemed to be rust! Hmmm! Pale linen banners hang from the ceiling shielding the diners from the rest of the restaurant and the bar. Occasionally our surly New York waitress would waft through the banners and give us the minimum of service and assistance with translating the dishes on the menu. Clearly she wasn’t looking for a tip or is this laissez faire attitude the ‘thing’ now? Whatever the case, we were completely unimpressed! I didn’t think that tomato avoidance would be especially required but I also don’t like rice or noodles so I was keen to decipher the all appetiser menu. Eventually I selected Tai Sea Bream with Summer Truffle and “Jazzy” Cucumber Petals – Pekin Duck and Foie Gras. If I am totally honest, they look very elaborate but and beautifully constructed but I can’t really pick out the individual flavours. The cucumber has a pleasing crunch and coolness but I am not aware I am eating duck for the third night in a row. And don’t get me wrong, I adore duck but as I deftly chopstick the artistic little creation into my mouth,I can’t actually detect duck. And I have to remind myself that the other sophisticated little parcels contain summer truffles, maybe I am just tired! Next I have Kobe beef with Maitake Mushroom Sukiyaki (which apparently means cooked in big pot). I am huge fan of Kobe beef, it has a beautiful marbling which is part breeding and part the traditional beer and sake diet. It is also reported that the cows Kobe comes from, known as Wagyu (which means Japanese cow) are massaged to help promote marbling and one assumes makes for a happier cow. I’m afraid that I just can’t appreciate the fabulous-ness of Kobe beef in this dish, I do better than K who finds gristle in her Chicken Yakitori and N says her noodles are dry. And I can’t remember if S found his noodles to his taste, he was probably just trying to stay awake and not slump into the aforementioned noodle dish. Whilst I am trying to be bowled over by my Kobe, I recall hearing of Masa before and whip out my BlackBerry to consult this blog. And yes, I have researched Masa when I was first tried to choose a restaurant for DD and my special birthday meal. Not knowing a huge amount about the New York restaurant scene, one of the first things I looked at was the newly appointed Michelin stars. And there it was, Masa had been awarded two Michelin stars by the illustrious French restaurant critics and I’d also commented that Jamie Oliver had raved about this place. As we were all fairly surprised - the frankly insolent service, the lack lustre food and strange pock marked interior - I ask our ‘friendly’ waitress if they indeed do have two of the finest Michelin stars. She shrugs and says that New York magazine have awarded them five stars and wafts off again. Being a committed gourmand I actually have the printed list of New York magazine’s 101 best New York restaurants in my bag – okay, I am slightly obsessive. I leaf through, I already know that Le Bernardin is considered to be number one, but to my surprise Masa is number two! Our waitress meanders back to declare that they do indeed have two Michelin stars, so clearly the guys from Michelin had either had their sake spiked or had been given a totally different experience. What were they thinking when they awarded the super friendly, really tasty fresh food of Union Square Café with nothing and Masa two? I can appreciate that perhaps we were a little jaded after a long week but despite the fabulous company they was just nothing remarkable about our Masa trip – I can’t even decide whether to award it one fork, maybe I have to add another category, ‘no forks’ and add them to that!

On my return I have done further research and it appears we were in the Masa Bar and not the Masa restaurant and I read that Masa is a seriously jaw-droppingly expensive experience. Clearly we just weren’t paying enough to appreciate ‘the full Masa’, I am still very confused. The oddest thing is though, the upshot of my Michelin enquiry obviously provoked our waitress into a little more service, 'too little too late frankly' but I’d love to know what the higher powers she consulted thought when I asked such a foodie question. Suddenly everyone felt the need to swing by our table and enquire as to our enjoyment, but we’d finished by then and were just looking forward to sinking into our respective beds.

So in conclusion, Masa – a total mystery to me!

311

There are places all over the world that are just legends in their own right – the Viper Room in LA, Studio 54 formerly of New York and Harry’s Bar in Venice. These places just have a certain notoriety or special ambience that draws the ‘right’ people and hedonists, they flock to hang out, have a drink (maybe even a drink that was created there – Harry’s Bar Bellini, for example) and just feel they are in a home from home. You expect some over-sized comfortable chairs where you can sip your chosen cocktail or glass of something stronger or maybe just to watch the ‘beautiful people’ go by.

Now there’s a new “destination de jour” that’s mentioned in hushed tones, a place where you can try on sparkly jewellery (don’t ask!), tuck into a bowl of Minstrels or sip fine wine or maybe a Verve Clicquot. What is extra special about this place is that it was so exclusive and underground that it was only open for five days.

This place was 311 (aka Diva Mansions), it was a fleeting sanctuary for thirsty travellers from all over the world, it was a place where we could ponder whether one of us really had bodies buried in their allotment (sorry, they turned out to be turnips!) or compare stories and wonder if it is always necessary for procurement people to be just so pedantic and officious! You could also have your photo taken with a genuine diva and practice being a Bond villain. Where else could you do any of that?

311 – the place to be – albeit briefly, don’t forget where you heard it first!

A fan of Pan Asian?

After last night's rather dubious Tex Mex restaurant I will admit that my heart dropped somewhat when I realised that we were off to Elements of Asia for tonight's feast. Though it being DD's birthday, it did seem so very suitable. However I thought, it can't always be French food! As soon as we walked through the door they started serving us huge boats of sushi and sashimi. And I have to admit; the salmon was seriously fresh and very good. Not being a fan of rice, I plumped only for the sashimi.

I consulted the menu and crossed my fingers that they had crispy duck and pancakes because I have to say it’s really the only option I’d choose in a Chinese restaurant. I am sure that there are other fabulous things to eat there but especially as I don’t like the taste of soy sauce and countless other flavourings, many options are ruled out.

I am very partial to duck, spring onions, hoisin sauce and pancakes so I haven’t found the need to explore the options further yet.

The artistry of our dishes was amazing; I was kept busy snapping everyone’s beautiful dishes including birthday boy DD’s sea bass. My duck pancakes didn’t look so artistic but certainly couldn’t be accused of being a meagre portion. The waiter stood by our table at a special stand and carefully shredded an entire plump duck, and then proceeded to hand me plates and plates of pancakes. Needless to say I couldn’t (despite how yummy they were) consider eating my body weight in duck so I shared them round the other tables.

N ordered a striped bass and even though it looked good was definitely a case of style over content, was rather lacking in flesh and was a lot of effort for little reward!

Sorry N, you should have had the duck – there was enough to sustain an entire village!

P and K very thoughtfully bought DD and I a bottle of Verve Clicquot each – extremely suitable for a pair of divas!

And we were presented with bowl of pistachio ice cream and a vanilla ice cream with a birthday candle in so we could blow them out. Thoroughly spoilt!

And in case you’re wondering – P didn’t get us lost tonight! Those breadcrumbs we sprinkled on the road must have helped or was it the kind yet explicit instructions from the fabulous French S?